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LAWN TIPS AND
SECRETS
When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and
knowledgeable representative. Don't just buy any brand.
Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where
they market their lower quality seed.
Aerating, over-seeding and fertilizing twice per year will
give you that beautiful luxurious lawn that the guy next
door would kill for, without using harmful chemicals.
The best way to keep dandelions and weeds out of your lawn
is to keep a healthy lawn and regularly over-seed any bare
spots.
Higher quality lawn fertilizers have around 50% slow release
nitrogen and give the highest return for the dollar spent.
Twenty-five square feet of lawn produce enough oxygen
for one person per day!
LINKS TO CURRENT
PUBLISHED ARTICLES
WRITTEN
BY STEWART ARMOUR 2008
http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Stewart_Armour
Lawn Advice from Stewart
Dry Spots. When localized dry spots
occur on your lawn, a soil surfactant (also called a soil
wetting agent) may help. The main reason dry spots occur
is inadequate coverage from your irrigation system. The
second reason for localized dry spots is soil composition
such as heavy clay, which promotes poor root development
of your lawn in that area. Another factor could be an environmental
situation such as a reflective building with the lawn on
the north side causing double sun exposure, toasting your
lawn. I have also seen chunks of sodded over cement in new
housing developments.
Soil Compaction. Houses built in the
last 20 years have heavier soil compaction because of bulldozers,
backhoes and big lifts used in the construction process.
Good soil is now more expensive. In new construction, the
lawn is graded (all soil scraped and taken away) then covered
again with 1 or 2 inches of soil. If you live on a property
like this, add compost annually and aerate your lawn twice
a year then rake fine compost into the aeration holes. Over
time this will change your soil profile. Most newly-constructed
properties have little or no soil preparation.
Seed Quality.
Higher quality seed
for Western Washington is grown in Oregon in the Willamette
Valley. This seed is usually endophyte enhanced which is
a fungus that discourages some chewing insect pests and
increases your lawns' stress resistance. Seed is professionally
mixed or blended for a reason. If only one super seed was
used and it became susceptible to a pest or disease, you
would lose your whole lawn. Most seed is purchased at the
big box stores and is purchased on one criterion, price.
Most homeowners do not take into consideration purity and
quality.
Many things are considered when seed is mixed or blended:
- the color of the grass at maturity
- the fineness of the blade and uniformity
- how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting
and fertilization
- disease and susceptibility to pests
This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed
broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be
purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that
local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass
is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home
lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For
home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 overseeding mix. Eighty
percent of residential homeowners stop watering after the
perennial rye grass germinates or end up mowing up the fescues
which haven’t had enough time to root properly before cutting.
Fescue grass also requires more water longer than
perennial rye grass in order to become established. You
need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary
grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t
want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches
tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.
Kentucky Blue Grass looks beautiful, but in Western
Washington. The winter does not get cold enough here so
this grass cannot go into dormancy and it dies. Kentucky
blue grass is used at local sod farms to help hold the sod
together.
Cheap seed is no bargain, it quite often contains
other non desirable grasses by accident or on purpose. At
the box stores I now see a change in marketing techniques
by reputable seed producers. They market seed with their
nationally known name but aimed at the cheapest purchaser.
These seeds are marketed using descriptions like "contractors'
mix" or "extremely fast establishing" or "quick green".
The frugal shopper buys this seed, gets it home, applies
it, and it looks great. But when the seed finally matures,
it's usually wide bladed and ugly and "goes to seed" all
the time. The frugal shopper then sees the ugly lawn and
by then has forgotten what he put on last year so goes back
and buys a cheap, low-quality product again!
Peat Moss.
Many homeowners decide
to cover their seed with peat moss. If you use peat moss,
I strongly recommend renting a peat moss roller from a rental
yard. Not to be confused with a drum you put water in for
site compaction, a peat moss roller is light and easy to
transport. Peat moss roller rental is about $15 dollars
a day. The roller itself is made of expanded diamond-cut
metal which has many openings to equally distribute the
peat moss. The quality of this is unattainable by hand spreading.
Do not put peat moss on too thick or it will interlock and
prevent the seed from growing through it.
Rototilling. Another mistake many
people make is rototilling existing lawns and then trying
to grade it. Wow what a mistake! Talk about labor intensive!
Rototilling creates a huge tangled mess of dirt clods and
grass. Then when you rototill your new topsoil into the
mess that's left, it takes hours to get it graded and there's
always a chunk of your old lawn on top.
Plus if you do get it graded that old sod will be decomposing
and your newly established yard will end up with many bumps
and dips. So use a sod cutter first then the rototiller.
With rototilling you never know what a previous owner has
buried, so make a place to put unwanted dug up items.
Sod. When considering sod, ask to
see a report of what's in the sod's soil. Ask for a guarantee
of quality. What kind of condition has the sod been cut
in. Check the sod out when it's delivered. If it's been
raining it could be much heavier than normal.
Was it grown on heavy clay that's heavily treated with
lime? Is the soil already cracking? Are all the pallets
of sod uniform? If it's hot outside, imagine how hot it
is at the bottom of the pallet. Don't let the pallet sit
there on a hot day for hours on end. Sod can't be beat for
instant results. Also many new housing developments require
a front lawn by sod only.
Hydroseeding. Sodding properties over
5,000 square feet gets expensive. Many landscape designers
now prefer hydroseeding for larger properties. You have
to water more in the beginning, but what you save in labor
and cost can be spent on proper site preparation.
When comparing hydroseeding estimates, please consider
the following criteria. All bids are not equal. More is
to be considered than just cost per square foot. Ask about:
- the hydro mulch to be used
- seed quality and fertilizer
- if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then
is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil washing
away?
- do they have experience working on residential lawns?
- what do they recommend for weed control?
Soil Testing.
Before paying for an extensive
soil renovation it makes sense to consult with a soil and
plant lab.
Harris
Laboratories in Lincoln Nebraska has a good reputation.
Their soil test will tell you about:
- organic material in your lawn
- cation exchange capability
- soil fertility
- pH levels
- a complete scientific readout.
This is a road map for your soils' future. The tests show
what your current soil conditions are and tell you what
changes to make to achieve the highest results. Before starting
a yard project you should call 1-800-424-5555 to get your
underground lines marked for free. This is usually completed
within a couple of days. Please note they may use temporary
paint on your sidewalk.
Dog Urine Spots. Dog urine often creates big dead
spots in the lawn. This is caused by the concentrated nitrogen
in the urine. Mature male dogs mark their territory so less
urine is deposited at a time. Heavily fertilized, newly
sodded yards and stressed lawns are most susceptable to
urine spots. Try diluting the spot with water after the
dog has urinated or replant with perrenial rye grass which
is more tolerant of heavy nitroegen. Also, using organic
fertilizers or fertilizers with lower nitrogen levels may
reduce severity of spotting.
EcoLawn™.
EcoLawn is a seed mix developed by Tom Cook at O.S.U.
This seed results in an enviromentally friendly lawn which
should be mowed between four to six inches high. The mix
contains perenial rye grass and fescue, yarrow, english
daisy, and strawberry clover. It requires less water and
fertilizer. It is traffic tolerant if cut high. This is
not for people who want a traditional manicured lawn.
Red Thread.
Red thread is a disease of turfgrass caused by a fungus
and is commonly found on fescue and ryegrasses. Red thread
develops most during periods of high moisture and cool temperatures.
The effects are most noticeable during spring and fall when
the disease is well developed. Light pink to red strands
become visible on the lawn. Red thread can be reduced by
maintaining adequate levels of nitrogen. Proper fertilization
reduces red thread.
Spring Checklist.
- Sharpen and balance lawnmower blade after first
cut. Change spark plug and check air filter. Does mower
have fresh gas and clean oil?
- Pruning tools:
- Sharpen
- Sterilize with alcohol or bleach (to prevent
transferring diseases)
- Apply light lubricating oil.
Lawn Care Calendar:
| Time-Frame |
Action |
| Jan-Feb |
Crane Fly Control |
| Mar-Apr |
Aerate, thatching, seed, fertilize, lime, calopril |
| May-June |
Broadleaf control and organic fertilizer, thatching |
End of Aug-
Early Sep |
Thatch |
| Sep-Oct |
Sep 10th aerate seed fertilize through Oct 21st |
| Nov-Dec |
Heavy, slow-release fertilizer |
Grass and Evergreen Trees. Evergreen trees kill
lawn grasses. The needles of the trees contain high amounts
of acidity. If you must grow grass underneath these trees,
use a bagging mower and replant four times a year with perennial
rye grass. Don't forget to water regularly, because the
tree may restrict natural rainfall. Remember that the tree
adds value to your property, so don't just remove it on
a whim. Trees also absorb noise from nearby traffic.
Lime. There are three different types of lime:
calopril, dolomite and gypsum. Gypsum helps break up clay
and adds calcium but does not adjust soil pH. Dolomite costs
more and has extra magnesium, which most lawns don't require
in Western Washington. Calopril adjusts the soils pH, which
allows the nutrients in the soil to be available to the
grass.
Broadleaf Control for Lawns. May or June is the
best time of year to kill dandelions -- when the plant is
growing aggressively. When there is enough moisture and
heat for rapid plant growth, the herbicide will get a high
kill rate with minimum use.
Weed and Feed. If you have a very weedy
lawn, it could be 20% weeds. So if you apply weed and feed,
80% is wasted on a healthy lawn. Of the weeds, many are
monocots and weed and feed only kills dicots (broadleaf).
For herbicides, selective spot spraying is best. But if
you practice plant health care persistently and consistently,
you won't need weedkillers.
Because of kids, pets and the environment, homeowners
are becoming more receptive to taking care of their landscapes
with a less toxic approach including organics. You have
to set realistic expectations and figure out how to achieve
this. One way could be to rake the leaves into your flower
beds then cover them with compost.
Having a healthy, thick, vigorously growing lawn is the
best deterrent to prevent weed infestation and cranefly
damage. To maintain a healthy lawn, aerate, seed, and apply
starter fertilize twice a year. We use only granular fertilizer
since it accurately delivers the fertilizer where you want
it. Sprays are susceptible to being blown by the wind and
is wasteful..
Corn Gluten.
Corn gluten is a less toxic weed control product which
is produced as a byproduct of the cornmeal process. Corn
gluten lets weed seed germinate but inhibits secondary root
growth. The first root growth cannot support plant health
therefore the weed or plant dies. Corn gluten is labeled
as a pesticide but has a very low toxicity rating -- it
is often used in cat or dog food.
This is used as a preemergant so it can prevent grass
seed from germinating (that's bad). Timing is critical.
Check with the Washington State extension service for best
results and practices. This product does not kill existing
weeds.
Walt's
Organics in Ballard carries this product and so do many
upscale nurseries.
Lawn Dormancy. Turf grass is a unique
plant. When water is not available, it dehydrates itself.
Then when water becomes available, it rehydrates itself.
All other plants when dehydrated become compost.You should
prepare your lawn for
dormancy by having as healthy a lawn as possible. A
weak lawn in dormancy will be susceptable to weed infestation
and traffic damage. A healthy lawn can tolerate summer/winter
stresses.
Crane Fly. European Crane Fly damage
usually happens to lawns with poor drainage. The roots of
the lawn rot all winter and become very susceptable to damage.
Many new housing developments are devoid of organic material.
The sod has been laid on the hard pan with one inch of man-made
topsoil. Indicators of Crane Fly infestation would be starlings
pecking on your lawn. Crane Fly levels become damaging to
turf when more than 25 larvae are present per one square
ft. Check out the
Washington State Extension service for the latest information
on the Crane Fly.
Leaves. Leaves come in two shapes when
they drop from trees -- flat and rounded.
Flat leaves, such as those from Maple trees lay flat
on the ground, and when they become wet, they form a tight
layer over the grass. This can smother the grass. Rake these
or mow them to sure your grass can breathe through the winter.
Rounded leaves, such as those from Oak trees, do not
form a tight layer on the grass unless they are too thick.
It is still best to rake or mow them to maintain a healthy
lawn.
Small leaves, such as those from locust trees, are small
enough that they do not present a problem.
Interesting articles:
Here is a neat article about mowing sports fields
Environmental Guidelines for Responsible Lawncare and Landscaping
Sports Turf: the Low-down, the Issues, the Future
11 Yard Talk Videos on Landscaping Best Practices
Seattle Tilth (Tilth = Health of the Soil)
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Landscape Advice from Stewart
Bark. Bark is usually applied to a garden for
aesthetic reasons and to retard weed growth. Bark is composed
of dyed wood pieces that require large amounts of nitrogen
to be broken down. So bark takes nutrients out of your soil.
Bark can also have high salt content since the trees the
bark came from might have floated in salt water. For these
reasons, I prefer mulch.
Mulch. The two main reasons for mulching your
landscape is to provide a barrier for shading out weed seeds,
and to retain moisture for your expensive plants. After
the mulch breaks down, organic material is also provided
for your soil. Mulches reduce labor, pesticide and water
usage. Mulches help encourage nutrient recycling and the
soil web.
Sheet Mulching. This method is used
to cover landscaped areas to discourage weed growth without
chemicals. Lay down newspapers or cardboard [a biodegradable
filter fabric] then cover with mulch. This provides a barrier
between germinating seeds and the mulch. Also used to replace
lawn area for future flower beds.
Weed Fabric. Good intentions, bad results.
Most homeowners put this black, cloth-like material down
and then cover the fabric with bark or mulch. What happens
is fine particles of bark or organic material clog the pores
of these mats. This prevents water and oxygen from getting
to your soil. The soil becomes sterile and lifeless. Removing
these mats is very labor intensive and expensive.
HardScape Weeds. Do not spray weeds
on a hardscape such as concrete. Many herbicide sprays are
built to dissipate in soil, but on concrete they just wash
away (into creeks and rivers). Alternatives could be pouring
boiling water on the weed or burning with a weed torch.
Gravel Paths. If you are going to put
in a gravel path, I suggest 5/8 size gravel or a material
you can later pave over if the need arises. Do it once and
get a solid working base you can add to.
Lawn Edging. It is
best to have a curvilinear lawn edge on a flowerbed. When
a straight edge gets out of line its easy to notice and
hard to correct.
Landscape Consultants. It is well worth a homeowner's
time to call a landscape consultant. The consultant will
tell you about the plants you have, including growth habits,
pests, proper placement, special nutrional needs, transplanting,
botanical names and additions you can make to your garden.
It is best to record this consultation using a camcorder
for later viewing. Ruth, Falaah or Crissy are recommended
for this type of consultation. Expect to pay $50-60 dollars
an hour for this service.
Pests and Predators. Just because a pest such
as aphids or other chewing insects is present doesn't mean
you have to spray pest control immediately. It takes awhile
but predators lag behind pest infestation. In other words,
something often comes along and eats your pests! First decide
how much pest damage you or the plant will tolerate, then
decide if action is required. Put chewing tobacco in an
old nylon, let it soak overnight in your sprayer, then apply
in the morning. This will repel many chewing insects. Reapply
after rain or as needed. See
Master Gardener Plant Clinics (PDF)
Topping Trees. Do not top evergreen trees.
It destroys the growth habit of the tree and in 15 years
the tree will become dangerous and fall through your roof
or your neighbor's. It is better to selectively remove limbs
or remove the tree. When an evergreen tree is topped, most
new growth is directed to the top. After a few years the
tree will be top heavy. Then when a winter storm hits, the
top breaks off, and might go through someone's house. This
is called the sail effect. See
Five Reasons to Stop Tree Topping.
Favorite Gardening Tool. The hula hoe
is a garden hoe with a pivoting blade that wiggles back
and forth. It goes 1/2 inch below the surface of the soil
and cuts the tops off the weeds.This stops photosynthesis
which discourages further growth. This tool allows the gardener
to cover large spaces quickly and saves wear and tear on
your back.
Favorite Pruners. I like
Felco
brand. They cost initially more but last many years.
Almost all moving parts are easily replacable. Felco pruning
saws are world renowned for quality of cut and workmanship.
Favorite Tree Book.
A New Tree Biology, by Alex Shigo. Subjects covered:
pruning, root rot, topping, wound dressings, injections,
cracks, tree treatments and much more with plenty of examples.
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Interesting links:
Native plant guide with pictures
Thatch prevention and control
Watering home lawns and gardens
Straight Talk on Your Money
Something fun to do with the family at XMAS:
Bellevue Botanical Gardens
(Sample Photos below)
Japanese Garden
Kubota Garden
Woodland Park Rose Garden
Seattle Chinese Garden
Center for Urban Horticulture
Here is a link to a cute page called
"Installing
Love". I hope you like it as much as I do :)
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