Aeration is the process of mechanically removing cores of turf to improve the flow of air, water and nutrients in dense, compacted soil.
Aerating will allow your grass to grow healthier, greener and thicker. It will also help with drainage and allow air and water to reach the roots of your lawn.
I use a core aerator that extracts plugs of soil from your lawn. The plugs can be up to 2-3/4 inches long, depending on how compact your soil is.
Spring and fall are generally the best times of year to aerate your lawn. These are the seasons when your lawn is actively growing and you can overseed immediately afterwards. Many people also aerate in July to prevent localized dry spots and improve irrigation.
By aerating late spring you can encourage the roots to grow deeper, keeping your lawn green longer.
Houses built in the last 20 years have heavier soil compaction because of bulldozers, backhoes and big lifts used in the construction process. Most newly-constructed properties have little or no soil preparation. In new construction, the lawn is graded (all soil scraped and taken away) then covered again with 1 or 2 inches of soil. If you live on a property like this, add compost annually and aerate your lawn twice a year, then rake fine compost into the aeration holes. Over time this will change your soil profile.
Because clay soil is a very fine particle with very small pore spaces, air and water cannot move well through soil, which encourages poor root growth.
Aerating produces holes that act as a seed bed which helps to shelter the seed and encourages their germination.
On lawns with compacted soils or under renovation, it is beneficial to aerate twice yearly. With sandy soil, once a year aerating is recommended.
No. If you have clay, sand and clay can turn your soil into a concrete substance. I suggest adding an organic material such as a native soil or fine compost.


Thatching is the removal of old, tired, grass and moss. The process I use is called “Power Raking.”
Soils with a PH less than 5.5, heavily compacted soil with high clay content, over-watering and over-fertilizing of lawns with poor soil conditions, and frequent shallow watering.
Thatching cost is by estimate, considering condition of the yard at the time thatching is performed, degree of difficulty, size and whether or not multiple passes are required.
Your lawn will be very spongy, your lawn mower wheels will sink into the grass and the blade scalps the grass.
If you have not thatched your lawn for many years, it’s best to not remove it all at once. Thatching can put your lawn under heavy stress.
Spring and fall, when the lawn is dry, actively growing and can repair itself quickly. It is best to thatch lighter in spring and heavier in fall when the lawn can rejuvenate itself most easily.
When water has problems getting through the thatch layer and your lawn has become too spongy and is rooting within itself. I have found fall to be the best time of year because fall temperatures are stable and seed germination happens very quickly.
  • Aerate seed and fertilize twice a year. Aeration helps to stimulate microbes that digest thatch the newer grass seed produces less thatch when mature.
  • Use low nitrogen fertilizers with slow release technology.
  • Apply an organic fertilizer twice a year for healthy soil; healthy soil will digest excess thatch.
  • Rather than watering lightly often, deep and infrequent watering will encourage strong root growth while discouraging thatch development.
We do offer raking for an additional fee but we do not offer haul away services.  If you are going to have a heavy thatch job (as will be established in the consultation) we recommend having a large yard waste bin available.

Lawn Tune Ups

Aerating, overseeding, and starter fertilizer.
Organic fertilizer is available for a small extra charge.
No, to include thatching is a separate service
To bring back a healthy looking lawn and introduce new grass seed varieties specially formulated for Western Washington.
Spring and fall are the best times.  I recommend a Tune-Up twice a year.
If you have large bare spots of soil or have already thatched your lawn, your grass will require extra seed not included in the standard Tune-Up price.
I apply up to 10lbs of seed per 3,000 sqft.

Full Meal Deal

Full Meal Deal includes: thatching, aerating, fertilizer and overseed.  Every lawn has different needs and once the consultation has been completed there could be room to add additional items like Gypsum Lime, Drought Buster, or our popular Soil Amendment.
Yes and it is highly recommended for many lawns.
No two lawns are created equal so every Full Meal Deal requires a consultation to determine the price.  Consultations are always free!
There are many factors including: how large the lawn is, how much thatch or moss needs to be removed, how thick the thatch layer is, and how much seed will be required after the overhaul.
Yes it can be completed in one day.  That depends on the health of your lawn, the temperatures, and whether or not we will be raking after thatching.  The timeline of your Full Meal Deal will be established in your consultation.
A Full Meal Deal begins with thatching so it is recommended in spring and fall.  The heavier the thatch, the more likely it will be best in the fall.

Landscaping Advice

Do not top evergreen trees. This destroys the growth habit of the tree. It is better to selectively remove limbs or remove the tree. When an evergreen tree is topped, most of the new growth is directed upward. After a few years the tree will become top heavy, then when a winter storm hits, it may become dangerous by breaking off and possibly falling through your roof or your neighbor’s. This is called the sail effect. See Five Reasons to Stop Tree Topping.
Good intentions, bad results. Most homeowners put this black, cloth-like material down and then cover the fabric with bark or mulch. What happens is fine particles of bark or organic material clog the pores of these mats. This prevents water and oxygen from getting to your soil. The soil becomes sterile and lifeless. Removing these mats is very labor intensive and expensive.
It is well worth a homeowner’s time to call a landscape consultant. The consultant will tell you about the plants you have, including growth habits, pests, proper placement, special nutritional needs, transplanting, botanical names, and additions you can make to your garden. It is best to record this consultation using a camcorder for later viewing. Ruth, Falaah or Crissy are recommended for this type of consultation on my Recommended Service Providers Page. Expect to pay $50-60 dollars an hour for this service.
Bark is usually applied to a garden for aesthetic reasons and to retard weed growth. Bark is composed of dyed wood pieces that require large amounts of nitrogen to be broken down. Bark takes nutrients out of your soil. It can also have high salt content, since the trees the bark came from might have floated in saltwater. For these reasons, I prefer mulch.
The two main reasons for mulching your landscape are to provide a barrier for shading out weed seeds, and to retain moisture for your expensive plants. After the mulch breaks down, organic material is also provided for your soil. Mulches reduce labor, pesticide and water usage. Mulches also help to encourage nutrient recycling.
This method is used to cover landscaped areas and discourage weed growth without chemicals. Lay down newspapers or cardboard (a biodegradable filter fabric) then cover with mulch. This provides a barrier between germinating seeds and the mulch. This is also used to replace current lawn area for future flower beds.
to reduce evaporation and stress on the plants during the summer heat. If you deadhead your annuals and perennials quite often, they will bloom again in summer.
Just because pests such as aphids or other chewing insects are present does not necessarily mean that you have to spray pest control immediately. It takes a while but predators lag behind pest infestation. In other words, something often comes along and eats your pests!
First decide how much pest damage you or the plant will tolerate and then decide if action is required. Put chewing tobacco in an old nylon, let it soak overnight in your sprayer and then apply it in the morning. This will repel many chewing insects. Reapply after rain or as needed. See Master Gardener Plant Clinics (PDF).
The hula hoe is a garden hoe with a pivoting blade that wiggles back and forth. It goes 1/2 inch below the surface of the soil and cuts the tops off the weeds. This stops photosynthesis which discourages further growth. This tool allows the gardener to cover large spaces quickly and saves wear and tear on your back.
hula hoe
I like Felco brand. They cost initially more but last many years. Almost all moving parts are easily replaceable. Felco pruning saws are world renowned for quality of cut and workmanship.
Felco pruning shears
A New Tree Biology, by Alex Shigo. A New Tree Biology, by Alex Shigo. Subjects covered: pruning, root rot, topping, wound dressings, injections, cracks, tree treatments and many more topics with plenty of examples.
A New Tree Biology, by Alex Shigo
Do not spray weeds growing on a hardscape such as concrete. Many herbicide sprays are built to dissipate in soil, but on concrete they just wash away (into creeks and rivers). Alternatives could be pouring boiling water on the weed or burning with a weed torch.
If you are going to put in a gravel path, I suggest 5/8 size gravel or a material you can later pave over if the need arises. Do it once and get a solid working base that you can add to.

Lawn Fertilizer

Fall is the most important time of the year to feed and fertilize your lawn. Your lawn stores its energy in the roots of the grass and in the springtime when your lawn needs to grow, your grass calls on these reserves. In fall, even after the lawn has stopped growing, deep root growth is still occurring and does so for several weeks.
A higher quality fertilizer that controls the release of nitrogen through temperature, water or microbial activity; a technique that “spoon-feeds” your lawn and prevents growth surges. The fertilizer that I use is a 60% slow-release fertilizer which is high in phosphorous; promoting deep root growth and is of a higher quality.
Slow release fertilizer prevents your lawn from growing too fast during the rainy season so that you can cut it on your own schedule.
Quick release fertilizer makes nutrients immediately available to your lawn and is generally of short duration.
No. If you have a very weedy lawn, it could be 20% weeds. So if you apply weed and feed, 80% is wasted on a healthy lawn. Of the weeds, many are monocots and weed and feed only kills dicots (broadleaf). For herbicides, selective spot spraying is best. Because of kids, pets and the environment, homeowners are becoming more receptive to taking care of their landscapes with a less toxic approach, including organics. You have to set realistic expectations and figure out how to achieve this. Having a healthy, thick, vigorously growing lawn is the best deterrent to prevent weed infestation and crane fly damage.
I like organic fertilizers that are high in mineral content and have been digested by an animal that is not hormone fed.
Yes, but make sure the synthetic fertilizers that you are using are 50% slow release or more and don’t have herbicides, insecticides or fungicides.
  • The US is the second largest producer and consumer of fertilizer in the world after China, in both categories.
  • The fertilizer manufacturing industry employs 33,000 jobs in the United States.
  • Despite the Pacific Northwest’s rainy reputation, the average annual rainfall is just below 40 inches, which is even less than New York City!
Wait 6 weeks after starter fertilizer to apply the regular fertilizer. Go to a nursery and ask for organic fertilizer; or you can buy 50lb bags from me for $60/bag. You should not apply weed & feed to new seedlings.
Weed control cannot be used around new seedlings or the seeds will not germinate.
None of my fertilizers include weed control.  Weed control should not be used around freshly seeded lawns or it will prevent seed germination.


Yes, most limes are insoluble and this will help it to reach the soil and root zone more quickly
I use a newer generation of enhanced lime that breaks down and adjusts the soil pH more quickly. An organic acid is added to limestone to make the lime readily available. This lime can do in months what would take two years for traditional lime to work.
No. However, lime adjusts the soil’s pH so that moss has less favorable growing conditions.
You can apply lime any time in the spring and fall for the most effective retention.

Soil Wetting Agent

Non-toxic and environmentally friendly, this is a combination of specialized ingredients.  When water falls onto a lawn, it follows the path of least resistance.  If that path avoids certain areas, perhaps with harder soil, this creates localized dry spots.  A soil wetting agent will treat problem areas allowing water to uniformly move through your lawns soil profile.
  • Reduces localized dry spots
  • Reduces lawn wilt
  • Reduces summer stress
  • Increases water retention
  • Uniform water movement throughout your lawns root zone
  • Will not burn like many other treatments
It breaks down the tension of the soil allowing water to get down to the root zone so that your new seedlings can develop the deepest roots possible.  It should be applied two weeks before seeding for maximum results.
Not at all; this product is specially formulated to penetrate only soil and will simply wash away from anything like sidewalk material.
Yes!  It is a non-toxic, non-flammable, non-corrosive and biodegradable.  It quickly moves off your lawn into the soil profile where it is created to work.
The chemical is applied to very fine particles of clay and designed to fall between the grass blades, work their way to the soil.  When you water your lawn the chemical is released and begins to influence your soil.
Golf courses, sports field managers, and especially agricultural crops use them.  Anyone who is interested in getting the full value of the water being invested into a lawn will use a wetting agent.
It has recently just become available and changing weather conditions now make it a smart investment if you will be seeding in the fall or watering through the summer.
Any time you experience dry spots on your lawn, despite regular watering.
It breaks down the tension in the soil so the water uniformly moves throughout the whole lawn to the root zone.
It will not burn and does not have to be watered in immediately.


Seeding introduces new, healthier, more vibrant grass seedlings to your existing lawn. The healthier your lawn, the more beautiful and more resistant it will be to disease and pests. Best of all, the overall vigor and health of your lawn enhances the value of your property.

When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and knowledgeable representative. Don’t just buy any brand. Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where they market their lower quality seed. This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 seeding mix.

Fescue grass also requires more water longer than perennial rye grass in order to become established. You need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.

A blend is a mixture of several different varieties of the same seed. An example would be a three-way perennial rye grass, similar in concept to like-blended whiskies.
Different types of seed are mixed together, such as perennial rye grass and fescue. This provides the advantage of mixing sun and shade grasses and disease with pest resistance.
Many things are considered when seed is mixed or blended:

  • the color of the grass at maturity
  • the fineness of the blade and uniformity
  • how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting and fertilization
  • disease and susceptibility to pests
Cheap seed is no bargain. It quite often contains other non-desirable grasses by accident or on purpose. At the box stores I now see a change in marketing techniques by reputable seed producers. They market seed with their nationally-known name but it is aimed at the cheapest purchaser. These seeds are marketed using descriptions like “contractors’ mix” or “extremely fast establishing” or “quick green”. The frugal shopper buys this seed, gets it home, applies it, and it looks great. But when the seed finally matures, it’s usually wide-bladed and ugly and “goes to seed” all the time. The frugal shopper then sees the ugly lawn and by then has forgotten what he put on last year, so goes back and buys a cheap, low-quality product again.
Higher quality seed for Western Washington is grown in Oregon in the Willamette Valley. This seed is usually endophyte-enhanced with a fungus that discourages some chewing insect pests and increases your lawn’s stress resistance. Seed is professionally mixed or blended for a reason. If only one super seed was used and it became susceptible to a pest or disease, you would lose your whole lawn. Most seed is purchased at the big box stores and based on one criterion: price. Most homeowners do not take purity and quality into consideration.
Many homeowners decide to cover their seed with peat moss. If you use peat moss, I strongly recommend renting a peat moss roller from a rental yard. Not to be confused with a drum you put water in for site compaction, a peat moss roller is light and easy to transport. Peat moss roller rental is about $15 a day. The roller itself is made of expanded diamond-cut metal which has many openings to equally distribute the peat moss. The quality of this is unattainable by hand spreading. Do not put peat moss on too thick or it will interlock and prevent the seed from growing through it.
Failure can be caused by: poor germinating temperatures, a weed and feed or chemical being applied either before or after seeding, lack of watering, overwatering, birds and other animals feeding on the seeds, contaminated soil, chemicals, diesel fuel and/or paint thinners.
Water your lawn daily, lightly and frequently, depending on the temperature. If possible, mow your lawn first before aeration.
Kentucky Bluegrass does not live longer than one year here in Western Washington. Winters are not cold enough for the grass to go into dormancy; disease will also kill it.
No. Another mistake many people make is to rototill an existing lawn and then try to grade it. Rototilling creates a huge, tangled mess of dirt clods and grass. Then when you rototill your new topsoil into the mess that’s left, it takes hours to get it graded and there’s always a chunk of your old lawn on top. In addition, if you do get it graded, that old sod will be decomposing and your newly established yard will end up with many bumps and dips. Use a sod cutter first, then the rototiller. With rototilling you never know what a previous owner has buried, so make a place to put unwanted dug up items.
Sodding properties over 4,000 square feet gets expensive. Many landscape designers now prefer hydroseeding for larger properties. You have to water more in the beginning, but what you save in labor and cost can be spent on proper site preparation.
When comparing hydroseeding estimates, please consider the following criteria. All bids are not equal. More is to be considered than just cost per square foot. Ask about:

  • the hydro mulch to be used
  • seed quality and fertilizer
  • if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil from washing away?
  • do they have experience working on residential lawns?
  • what do they recommend for weed control?
Yes because you can control exactly the amount of seed and type of mulch to be applied.
Use quality seed, fertilizer, the right mix in the tank, and irrigation.
In the Spring the birds have so much other food to eat they typically don’t eat many, if any, seeds.

General Lawn Advice

Evergreen trees kill lawn grasses. The needles of the trees contain high amounts of acidity. If you must grow grass underneath these trees, use a bagging mower and replant four times a year with perennial rye grass. Don’t forget to water regularly, because the tree may restrict natural rainfall. Remember that the tree adds value to your property, so don’t just remove it on a whim. Trees also absorb noise from nearby traffic.
Yes. Turf grass is a unique plant. When water is not available, it dehydrates itself. Then when water becomes available, it rehydrates itself. All other plants when dehydrated become compost. You should prepare your lawn for dormancy by having as healthy a lawn as possible. A weak lawn in dormancy will be susceptible to weed infestation and traffic damage. A healthy lawn can tolerate summer/winter stresses.
Leaves come in two shapes when they drop from trees: flat and rounded. Flat leaves, such as those from maple trees lie flat on the ground, and when they become wet, they form a tight layer over the grass. This can smother the grass. Rake these or mow them to ensure your grass can breathe through the winter. Rounded leaves, such as those from oak trees, do not form a tight layer on the grass unless they are too thick. It is still best to rake or mow them to maintain a healthy lawn. Small leaves, such as those from locust trees, are small enough that they do not present a problem.
The area between your irrigation heads that isn’t covered by the sprinkler heads or is caused by an environmental factor like a tree standing in the way. It can also be an area of your lawn that repels water, for instance, a large clay deposit.
Improper coverage from irrigation heads or from moving the sprinkler to different areas and not following the same pattern. You can also have a higher clay content or soil compaction in one area due to traffic patterns of people or pets on your lawn.
Yes. I find aeration and adding organic lawn fertilizer or a fine compost allows the water to penetrate those dry spots.
An introduced species that, in its larvae form, can be very destructive to your lawn. European Crane Fly damage usually happens to stressed lawns, shady areas, and areas with poor drainage. The roots of the lawn rot all winter and become very susceptible to damage. Many new housing developments are devoid of organic material. The sod has been laid on the hard pan with one inch of man-made topsoil. Indicators of Crane Fly infestation would be starlings pecking on your lawn. Crane Fly levels become damaging to turf when more than 30 larvae are present per one square ft. Check out the Washington State Extension service for the latest information on the Crane Fly.
When considering sod, ask to see a report of what’s in the sod’s soil. Ask for a guarantee of quality. What kind of condition has the sod been cut in. Check the sod out when it’s delivered. If it’s been raining it could be much heavier than normal.

Was it grown on heavy clay that’s heavily treated with lime? Is the soil already cracking? Are all the pallets of sod uniform? If it’s hot outside, imagine how hot it is at the bottom of the pallet. Don’t let the pallet sit there on a hot day for hours on end. Sod can’t be beat for instant results. Also many new housing developments require a front lawn by sod only.

The best months are March, April, May, June, September and the first half of October.
When you don’t have your irrigation system working and the lawn is dry. August is a bad time of year because of heavy heat stress. November to February is a poor time of year to sod your lawn because of freezing conditions and heavy rains.
Dog urine often creates big dead spots in the lawn. This is caused by the concentrated nitrogen in the urine. Mature male dogs mark their territory, so less urine is deposited at a time. Heavily fertilized, newly sodded yards and stressed lawns are most susceptible to urine spots. Try diluting the spot with water after the dog has urinated or replant with perennial rye grass, which is more tolerant of heavy nitrogen. Also, using organic fertilizers or fertilizers with lower nitrogen levels may reduce severity of spotting.
Raise the cutting height to 2.5 inches to reduce stress on the grass plant. This will leave more leaf surface and maximize root mass.
If you sharpen your own blade, don’t forget to balance the blade to prevent engine shaft damage. Reduce the number of mowings to minimize the amount of water lost due to evaporation.
Make sure your sprinkler system has a rain sensor to help you on your water bill. Flag your sprinkler system heads in summer, then take a picture showing all your flagged heads. When your system is first turned on in spring, any non-operating heads will be easier to locate. Plug drip irrigation emitters for plants that no longer exist.
Irrigation is important for maintaining ideal growing conditions throughout the year. Conditions that affect how much you have to water your lawn include higher temperatures, humidity, wind speed, and the depth of your grass’s roots; also how fast is your lawn growing. Ideally, your sprinkler system is replacing the water that your lawn is losing through evaporation and drainage. It is best to water deeply and infrequently, to the depth of your lawn’s root zone.

If your lawn has very shallow roots and forms puddles quickly or is on a steep slope, then light and frequent watering is best.

Shallow rooting, yellowing, and poor stress tolerances can result.
by creating thousands of individual reservoirs that hold or introduce water into your lawn’s root zone.
EcoLawn is a seed mix developed by Tom Cook at O.S.U. This seed results in an enviromentally friendly lawn which should be mowed between four to six inches high. The mix contains perenial rye grass and fescue, yarrow, english daisy, and strawberry clover. It requires less water and fertilizer and is traffic tolerant if cut high. This is not for people who want a traditional manicured lawn.
Red thread is a turfgrass disease caused by a fungus and is commonly found on fescue and ryegrasses. Red thread develops most during periods of high moisture and cool temperatures. The effects are most noticeable during spring and fall when the disease is well developed. Light pink to red strands become visible on the lawn. Red thread can be reduced by maintaining adequate levels of nitrogen. Proper fertilization reduces red thread.
May or June is the best time of year to kill dandelions – when the plant is growing aggressively. When there is enough moisture and heat for rapid plant growth, the herbicide will get a high kill rate with minimum use.
Corn gluten is a less toxic weed control product which is produced as a byproduct of the cornmeal process. Corn gluten lets weed seed germinate but inhibits secondary root growth. The first root growth cannot support plant health; therefore the weed or plant dies.

This is used as a preemergant so it can prevent grass seed from germinating (that’s bad). Timing is critical. Check with the Washington State extension service for best results and practices. This product does not kill existing weeds.

Walt’s Organics in Ballard carries this product and so do many upscale nurseries.

It is best to have a curvilinear lawn edge on a flowerbed. When a straight edge gets out of line its easy to notice and hard to correct.
  • Sharpen and balance lawnmower blade after first cut
  • Change spark plug and check air filter
  • Does mower have fresh gas and clean oil?
That is a common myth, but it does not create thatch.  When finely graded mulch is applied properly, it helps fertilize your lawn.  I suggest you read my article on Sustainable Lawns: https://www.aerating-thatching.com/sustainable-lawns

Instructions for Newly Seeded Lawn

Grass seed germination is simply what takes place inside the seed to make it sprout when the seed absorbs enough moisture to start growing. All seeds require a delicate balance of moisture, seed-to-soil contact and a temperature range of 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit for the best germination results. The success of your lawn is not entirely under your control, but there is much you can do to improve the final result. The pre-sprout phase is most critical so you must maintain a strong commitment to watering new grass seed.

  • Moisture
    Depending on the weather, you will need to commit to consistent watering. Pay attention to your daily weather and water accordingly to keep the soil firm yet moist at all times. The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily and for 30 minutes the first time. Water each session for 10 minutes with a spray nozzle that is adjusted for a soft mist gentle spray or an oscillating sprinkler, but not to the point where there are puddles as this may wash some seed away. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. This may mean sprinkling your lawn lightly as much as 2-3 times per day if the weather is hot, dry or windy.
  • Seed-To-Soil Contact
    The importance of the deep first watering is to push more seeds into the aeration holes left in your lawn. When the seeds can be deeper into the soil, they have access to the nutrients they will need to begin to sprout. For most sprinklers this will mean leaving the water running at each location for about 20 minutes.Only the top layer of soil needs to be moistened. Try to avoid disturbing the seed so it can maintain good soil contact.
  • Temperature
    Soil temperatures should be in the correct range (60-80 degrees) for the type of grass. Germination requires a minimum temperature range of 50 degrees. Note: Soil temperatures are usually cooler than air temperature. Once germination begins, if the environment changes significantly (like being too hot and dry), the seed or sprout will die.
When you have visible grass, after the seed germinates, continue watering daily for 7-10 days. The tiny grass plants have small root systems at this time and may die if the top layer of soil is allowed to dry out. Water makes up 70 to 80% of the weight of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water. Seeds will not sprout all at the same time. Seeds will be buried at different depths, absorb water differently and this dictates how much sunlight they will get. Many seed mixtures will have different characteristics affecting their development. It is crucial to keep the surface level of soil constantly moist until all seeds have germinated.

Once your seeds have germinated and become established, they will have a deep enough root system to be ready for mowing. Only mow your lawn after 21 days at heights of 3-4″. It is important to NOT spray weed control or chemicals for the first few months. Don’t forget to mark your calendar 6 weeks later for a fertilizer reminder!

Good luck with the success of your lawn!

Service FAQs

North Seattle to South Everett, and Eastside by appointment.
No. I’m usually booked for up to 12 hours a day, six days a week, and my prices are already very reasonable and competitive.
The aerating machine is very heavy and extremely difficult and dangerous to lift up stairs. I could easily get hurt. I use a ramp to raise the equipment up as many as 5 normal steps.
Because the travel time from North Seattle, between the bridges and traffic, is time that I am not compensated for.